🔗 Share this article

When curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning names. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their humble restaurant earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary honour.